2013 Sihh Craft Tour Vacheron Constantin

After Vacheron Constantin’s Métiers d’ Art master series launched the ‘mask’ watch in 2007. Every year, this series will bring infinite surprises to watch fans all over the world, so that discussing what watch from the master series becomes the hottest topic before the launch of SIHH every year. This year, Vacheron Constantin still live up to expectations, launching these three beautiful ‘Temple of Flowers’ women’s watches.

Regarding the life experience of these three watches, the watch house has made a detailed description for everyone during the watch exhibition. The names of the three beauties are strelizia, strelizia, Virgin’s lily, and Limodorum. Top blue). Before I talk about the craftsmanship of these three watches, I first have to report to Robert John Thornton, who compiled the biological masterpiece The Temple of Flora, published in 1799. Mr. Teng, salute, without you, these three beautiful watches.
For more information on the ‘three beauties’, please click:
To commend this precious cultural heritage, Vacheron Constantin not only brought together all the professional skills of brand artisans, independent artists, and the famous Geneva-style miniature enamel master Ms. Anita Porchet was also invited to join. In order to reproduce the details of the flowers on the dial one by one, Vacheron Constantin used the techniques of Guilloché (hand-carved and carved); Grand Feu (Daming firework) and Enamel Cloisonné (filigree enamel). See how these three techniques work.

 First, combining the artist’s sensitivity and delicate touch, Master Guilloché (machine-engraved carving) engraved a golden tire with a symmetrical and repeating machine-engraved pattern of only one-tenth of a millimeter.

 Then the enamel master used the gold wire structure to draw the outline of the enamel color.

 Fill it with enamel glazes of different colors in stages, put it in an oven at about 800 °, fire it, and polish the surface for the next color addition. Repeat this delicate step several times, and the color density of the enamel will gradually deepen.

 Finally, a layer of vitrified transparent enamel is applied to protect the ingenious floral pattern.

 The Master of Flowers Ladies’ Watch series, limited edition of 25 pieces each. Twenty of them are bright diamond-set bezel-set styles.

 The other 5 are exclusive stores in rectangular diamond-set bezel settings. And each watch has the supreme imprint of Geneva quality.

Luhan Actually Has A New Love? A 260,000 Barrel-shaped Watch!

Among the young male stars, it is said that Luhan watch products are recognized by the first-class watch circle, although it is said that the post-90s and post-00s are often described as aesthetically young by our old rivers and lakes, especially in the fashion field, which has almost formed Great divide. However, in the watch circle, it is still a group of old guys who have the right to speak-no matter how many DWs are sold, they cannot shake the status of fine watchmaking, instead of some tide brands relying on sweater shoes to get to the sky. Therefore, Luhan quickly left his peers behind with Patek Philippe, Rolex, Audemars Piguet, Roger Dubuis, and even RM, etc. A while ago, a photo of Deng Chaofa revealed a new story. Luhan’s new watch is barrel-shaped and does not follow tradition. It is his style. Let’s take a recent photo. Obviously, this one worn by Luhan is Parmigiani, Kalpa XL Hebdomadaire, and the domestic public price is 259,000 yuan. Do n’t worry about your name, just remember Kalpa. It is said that Luhan took Guan Xiaotong to buy 6 watches at a parmillion store in Paris … Many people in parmillion heard the name, but they did n’t know it. I’ve seen watches, after all, there are not many Chinese stores, and they are basically in the northern market. But people who know a little about watches can’t get around the name. Because if you mention watch technology, Parmigiani is one of the best watchmakers in the world. A genius will always meet someone who appreciates him, perhaps all that is needed is to hone and wait patiently. In 1974, Michel Parmigiani had just graduated, just in the face of the quartz crisis, and the Japanese lost nearly 10,000 jobs under the Japanese competition. But in this situation, Michel Parmigiani still chose the ‘traditional watchmaking’ route, and founded his own workshop in Couvet, Switzerland in 1976. He was very good at repairing watches at the time, and also produced exclusive works for collectors. His company, Mesure et Art du Temps, is not big, but it is nourishing to support himself, and his talents are freely used. In 1980, Michelle met the Sandoz family, and her life changed. The Sandoz family is the Sandoz Pharmaceutical Group, the successor of today’s Novartis. They have a very famous collection of pocket watches and mechanical devices-the ‘Edward Marcel Sandoz Collection’ (Collection Edouard Marcel Sandoz) ). At the time, Effrène Jobin, the curator of the Leroc Watch Museum, was responsible for the restoration of these artworks, and he was also looking for a retired heir. So he introduced Michelle Parmigiani to the Sandoz family. Under the recommendation of a family leader, Michelle Parmigiani finally founded his own name in 1996. Although the brand is very young, this does not prevent it from becoming a model. In fact, when I saw Luhan wearing Kalpa XL Hebdomadaire, I was slightly surprised, but the doubts were immediately resolved-from the perspective of his consistent watch selection style, he is not a traditional watch wearer, preferring more character styles. Indeed, one is young and the other is rich, so there is no need to consider anything other than ‘like’. And Parmigiani is also, since 1998, making the first movement PF110 is a barrel shape, it became clear that he did not intend to take the mediocre volume market model. In 2001, the barrel-shaped Kalpa series was born. This is why at this year’s SIHH Geneva Haute Horlogerie Salon, Parmigiani wanted to focus on this series and re-launch 3 new men’s watches-after all, the 20th anniversary since the first movement, which is the original choice and now Perseverance. This persistence is probably only found in aspiring talented watchmakers. First look at the first piece, Kalpa Hebomadaire. This watch has a special meaning, because it uses the iconic PF110 movement of Parmigiani. Two series barrels provide 8-day power reserve. In addition to the hour and minute indications on the dial, the small seconds dial at 6 o’clock, and the dial also has the date and power reserve indication. Now that it is talking about the very well-known PF110 movement, we have to mention the movement factory Vaucher Manufacture Fleurier. As a high-end movement supplier, VMF was founded in 2003. Its main customers are Parmigiani, Hermès and RM. However, most of the movements are provided to the first two. The reason is simple. The two brands are its two largest shareholders. The Sandoz family in which Parmigiani is located owns 75% of the VMF. Hermes spent 25 million Swiss francs in 2006. Lang bought the remaining 25% of the shares. VMF can currently produce 95% of its own movement components, which plays an important role in the field of high-end movements. The other two new watches are paired with two new movements. Generally speaking, there are two ways to make a new movement. One is to add new functional components to the original core, and the other is to start from scratch. Parmigiani’s PF365 and PF362 are new movements. It took 6 years from design to launch this year. For example, the Kalpa Chronor equipped with PF365 is a self-winding integrated chronograph with a 65-hour power reserve. Turn to look at the back, a piece of golden, yes, pure gold, this movement is hand-polished in 18K rose gold (the rotor is 22K yellow gold). Because it is a chronograph, a high vibration frequency of 36,000 vibrations per hour (5 Hz) is very meaningful. The reading can be accurate to 1/10 seconds (36,000 revolutions per hour, divided by 60 minutes and then divided by 60 seconds. (Equal to 10, that is, 10 jumps per second). In addition, the new movement is equipped with a column wheel and a vertical clutch device. After getting started, you will feel that the delay is shorter after you start the timing button, and it is smoother to press. I remember last year, when Rabbit interviewed Mr. Parmigiani, he mentioned why to make a pure gold movement. The first is to challenge technology. It is difficult to make movement parts with gold, and when cutting, gold is easy to cut. Something is rusty. However, the watch is something he cherishes, and it is more valuable to make it with gold. Moreover, he believes that the internal machinery and appearance should have enough beauty. However, this watch is only 50, and is looking for someone who cherishes them. As for the Kalpagraphe Chronomètre, which uses the PF362 movement, it is also a chronograph, which looks less golden, but the blue dial is very pleasing. If the former has a black bottom and a gold bottom, it’s a little swaggering. In fact, compared with the previous Kalpa, this year has also made details changes, such as the curvature and thickness of the side of the case have been adjusted, in order to make it more comfortable to wear, but such subtle changes may not be seen, but you will feel the difference. After talking about the male watch, you know, every time the rabbit wants to pinch the private goods, the bright female watch must come with a piece. This year marks the 10th anniversary of Kalparisma, Parmigiani’s first ladies’ mechanical watch, so a limited edition of Kalparisma Nova Galaxy has been released. Aventurine disk surface is one of the highlights. In the 19th century, glassmakers in Murano, Italy accidentally splashed copper shavings into molten glass, and the effect of glass mixed with metal debris appeared. This is the source of aventurine glass. Another feature is the small starfish-shaped second hand at 6 o’clock, which makes one revolution per minute. It is inspired by an antique three-question pocket watch that Parmigiani had repaired (the design of the back of this pocket watch is a large star surrounded by 12 small stars. After the three-question function is activated, all the stars start to rotate), Parma Johnny has always been attracted to it, and finally found the position of the star on the Kalparisma watch. The limited edition is 50 pieces in rose gold and 28 pieces in white gold. There are two kinds of leather straps and metal straps. The difference is that the platinum version is diamond-set with snowflakes, and the entire dial is full of diamonds. Girls are members of the Appearance Association, so take the movement in one go. PF332 is Parmigiani’s first self-winding mechanical movement. It has been used in the Kalparisma series since 2008, but it is a circular movement. Inside the barrel-shaped case. Rabbit’s representative girl wanted to say, “What’s the matter? It’s good-looking (all you have is money)!” I tried it at the Geneva watch fair this year. It’s very good. Unfortunately, the lights are not limited and the pictures are not taken in kind. Sense of refinement. Last night I lost a question in the group: What is your most impressive special-shaped watch? Everyone sent me strange pictures, and the barrel shape, at present, it seems that the recognition is only the round table and the square table. For many junior consumers, it is not easy to accept shapes other than round, but with the consumption upgrade in the Chinese market for more than 10 years, people who bought the first watch and round watch will always be tempted to germinate new desires. First, I want to enrich my collection differently from previous choices. Second, I finally dare to break through the tradition and follow my heart. Both of them bring space to the barrel-shaped watch. I always admit that as far as watches are concerned, I am the most valued person, so rabbits rarely involve too much professional topics in movements (with my many years of experience, I have basically figured out that my female readers are not very interested in this) , But once it comes to Parmigiani, this topic cannot be avoided. The technical master Mr. Parmigiani himself will not be sloppy in the inside. It is always a pity for me to leave out the internal and external studies for his timepiece. He said to me: ‘Curiosity is the biggest reason why I have been focusing on persisting to this day.’ It is also fun to put traditional craftsmanship into works that conform to modern aesthetics through restoration work. Of course, this pleasure is only appearance for him. Can’t be satisfied. Therefore, don’t take the ‘poor people always understand more’ from my comfort. If you don’t have money and don’t understand, you are really heartbroken … Gossip rabbits are only original, welcome to forward!